Fashion Specialist Rolf Scheider reports exclusively for GoSee on his Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin 2011

Berliner Fashion is still in its early stage of development? Yes, Berlin Fashion Week 2011 was once again a highlight for the city this July. Four days of fashion, fashion, fashion. Champagne as far as the eye could see and livers could accommodate, first class catering wherever one turned.

The MERCEDES BENZ Fashion Tent – over 50 shows at exclusive locations and all united in famous German reliability in terms of organization and punctuality, thanks to sponsors Mercedes Benz and organizers IMG. Paris really ought to take note.

However, a few days of regeneration later, once the fashion high had worn off and the last glass of bubbly had been emptied, a sobering dose of reality comes knocking and one has to ask: was that really all the fashion Berlin has to offer?

Now lets start at the beginning. Let’s start with this year’s fashion week setting: the morning view of the Brandenburg Gate was of course a sensation. It was the first time that the hub of BFW, the tent, was located at this renowned site. Usually a site reserved for tourists and entire youth hostels, the gate welcomed an army of fashion bloggers, editors and industry insiders.

In addition to the main runway, this year the tent also provided an installation and exhibition space for designers: the ‘Studio’. Models stood on white and black plinths and demonstrated in a somewhat surreal fashion pieces by, for example, David Tomaszewski.

Tuesday saw the beginning of my runway marathon, which kicked off with Michael Sontag and his fresh and colourful goddesses draped in airy dresses. Elegant yet minimalist best describes the young designer’s creations, whose work was also showcased at this year’s VOGUE Salon.

Generally speaking, BFW was clearly focused on young designers and supporting them. Newcomer label Augustin Teboul was a definite highlight of BFW. The label was founded by a designer duo of ESMOD Paris graduates. They won a fashion competition –their unique installation with plenty of black, pvc and leather (also presented at the VOGUE Salon), as well as the hearts of many a fashionista.

There was good reason for Marc Jacobs to support one of the newcomer awards this year: ‘Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg’. Besides his role as judge of the newcomer award, Jacobs is likely to have been one of the most important supporters of BFW in general.

His appearance brought to mind the famous Suzy Menkes tiff, whose visit to BFW a few years ago took it to stellar dimensions. Sadly, this year there was no sign of Menkes, Wintour, Mouzat or Madame Figaro on the ‘frows’ (fashion talk for front rows).

In fact most of the great and renowned international fashion editors didn’t make it to this year’s BFW. Perhaps because once again the dates coincided with the Haute Couture Shows in Paris?

My absolute favourite show this year was Marcel Ostertag. Ostertag, who is just as eye-catching as the models themselves, won me over with his great accessories, such as snake-like chains, oversize-clutches and great colours.

Guido Maria Kretschmer also hypnotised me. In a highly unique and superb location: the courtyard of the Royal Porcelain Factory, Kretschmer demonstrated what life should really be like. Pure Monaco summer style, models arriving in luxury limousines and a sensual festival for the audience with yummy delicacies and of course champagne!

As you can see, BFW had plenty to offer this year, which doesn’t come as a surprise considering its grand total of over 50 shows. But let’s be honest: there wasn’t a real wow-factor during those five days. Why? How could this happen in a metropolis like Berlin, which is usually looked to as an emerging location for trend spotting? This year everything came across as very samey, nice fashion ready to wear and wearable for any type of woman. And we all know what ‘nice’ means!

Very commercial with several creative highlights, which hardly encouraged any signs of emotion from the frowers. The questions that follow shows remain the same: Can we distinguish a recognisable style? What is the designer showing us? Why are they showing us this? And what statement are they delivering? It is of course difficult to answer these questions at BFW, where looks were similar and one had a sense of déjà vu, Paris perhaps? Yooonkks ago.

Furthermore, I personally missed the je ne sais quoi and daring of the designers, as well as the insatiable desire to passionately pursue and explore new undiscovered things which Berlin is actually famed for. However, there was of course an exception: Lena Hoschek. I loved her Italian-inspired collection so much I was ready to hop onto the next boat heading for Bella Italia. Her show was also great, however she was unfortunately an exception.

There is no better testing ground for designers than Berlin. The city’s freedom, unmistakable pizzazz and energy has plenty of space for, well, everything. The streets of Berlin are just as dotted with stylish people and fashionistas as London and Paris. You really do get the sense that fashion is created on the streets of Berlin.

The seeds of fashion confidence have been sown, however it will take a whole lot of champagne watering to nurture this budding plant to flower during BFW!